Hot Selling for TU-1J01 thermal wax actuator for electric switch valve to Turin Factories
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Hot Selling for TU-1J01 thermal wax actuator for electric switch valve to Turin Factories Detail:
1. Operation Principle
The Thermostatic Wax that has been sealed in shell body induces expansion by a given temperature, and inner rubber seal part drives its handspike to move under expansion pressure to realize a transition from thermal energy into mechanical energy. The Thermostatic Wax brings an upward movement to its handspike, and automatic control of various function are realized by use of upward movement of handspike. The return of handspike is accomplished by negative load in a given returned temperature.
2. Characteristic
(1)Small body size, occupied limited space, and its size and structure may be designed in according to the location where needs to work.
(2)Temperature control is reliable and nicety
(3)No shaking and tranquilization in working condition.
(4)The element doesn’t need special maintenance.
(5)Working life is long.
3.Main Technical Parameters
(1)Handspike’s height may be confirmed by drawing and technical parameters
(2)Handspike movement is relatives to the temperature range of the element, and the effective distance range is from 1.5mm to 20 mm.
(3)Temperature control range of thermal wax actuator is between –20 ~ 230℃.
(4)Lag phenomenon is generally 1 ~ 2℃. Friction of each component part and lag of the component part temperature cause a lag phenomenon. Because there is a difference between up and down curve of traveling distance.
(5)Loading force of thermal wax actuator is difference, it depends on its’ shell size.
Product detail pictures:
Adhering into the principle of "quality, provider, performance and growth", we now have gained trusts and praises from domestic and intercontinental consumer for Hot Selling for TU-1J01 thermal wax actuator for electric switch valve to Turin Factories, The product will supply to all over the world, such as: Holland , Malaysia , Yemen , We have been making our products for more than 20 years . Mainly do wholesale , so we have the most competitive price , but highest quality. For the past years , we got very good feedbacks , not only because we provide good products , but also because of our good after-sale service . We are here waiting for you for your inquiry.
This is my machine that I modified. I have hobbies in electronics, and I have applied it to my other hobby which is coffee. I added 2 PID controllers which regulate the two individual boilers in the machine. One for the brew boiler and one for the steam boiler. The controllers initiate the solid state relays which completes the AC circuit to the heaters attached to the boilers. I can set the temperature of the boilers to whatever I want. The temperature is regulated constantly at my desired set point; this allows me to replicate good espresso shots every time. Also the digital timer allows me to pull espresso shots automatically so I do not have to manually turn off the pump.
The cost of the total project was $400 which is an extremely good price for a dual boiler espresso machine. (I bought a used kitchen aid pro line dual boiler espresso machine(parts made by gaggia). The cheapest dual boilers cost $2000 on average.
I actually own 2 retired commercial grinders. One is a astoria super Jolly (as seen in the video) The other is a Rossi RR45 (not in the video; its in my school’s shop, designing another 3d print chute). A good grinder is essential for high quality coffee as it ensures all coffee particles will extract at the same rate. The cheapest grinder for espresso will require you to spend a minimum of $200. FYI my grinders average around $1000 a piece when purchased new.
Coffee used in the video is red bird espresso (1 week old). Coffee is considered stale after 1 month of roasting. Flavors during this stale period will be mute. You will not taste flavors like berries, peanut butter, chocolate, mangos ,etc. with stale coffee.
Parts I used:
-2 PIDs(auber clones from ebay seller name is happybuyersstore or globalbuyersstore)
-sestos digital timer (B2E AC version…IMO better than Auber timer for this particular application)
-rancilio v1 steam wand
- 12v wall plug adapter from an old home phone to power the PIDs (they run on 12v dc .5-1 amp is safe to use)
- Safety 3 amp fuse to protect the controllers from excessive current
-Project box was extracted from a broken ATX computer power supply
-terminal block
-14 gauge wire
for those curious of how I modified my machine please check out my flikr album:
The link above shows how I planned, designed, and built my espresso machine.
I hope you enjoyed this video.
This video is meant for my university applications so negative comments will be removed.
I need your assistance with Rheem water heater troubleshooting.
If you do not have hot water, check the circuit breaker to the hot water heater.
I have electricity.
Yeah, but a breaker flipped off or a blown panel fuse will turn off the power.
It is on.
I’m also assuming the high limit switch on the unit is not tripped. That’ll kill it.
The lights on the control panel are on, so it seems to be on. If the high limit switch kicked in, I’d expect at least a couple red lights.
The thermostat could be set too low.
This is not like the house thermostat; we don’t have thermostat wars over the hot water level, especially when you can up the percentage of cold water if you don’t like it.
If you cannot get much hot water even on all hot, the thermostat may not be functioning or it isn’t seated properly.
I cannot believe it has been moved, and it is not like it could have fallen off while someone was dusting it.
The wiring could be loose.
Unless there are rats in there, nothing would have gotten it loose. And a colony of dust bunnies won’t even cause a problem except an asthma attack when you open it.
It could break due to thermal stresses, warming and cooling.
A hot water heater usually just stays hot.
If the heating elements burned out, it would not get hot. Well, it gets just lukewarm or hot for the portion around the remaining work element until the second one burns out.
I’d have to ask a repair man to do that because I do not want to make a mess draining it to change out an element.
In theory, a lot of sediment in it could cover the elements and cause it not to work right, especially if the sediment coats the thermostat so that it doesn’t read right.
So I need to clean the water tank out so that it works right.
A lot of sediment on the bottom can cause bubbling and popping as hot water boils and escapes through the mud on the bottom.
I think the noise in the basement is the water softener, not the hot water heater.
If you have a gas water heater, the gas valves may need to be cleaned periodically of rust and ash, or the electrical sparker for the gas may need to be replaced.
I know a flame sensor coated in ash will cause it to not recognize the flame is burning and kill it. But I do not have a gas hot water heater.
Then the unit not heating up isn’t due to poor gas supply. It could still be due to humidity or a leak shorting out electrical connections.
At that point, I do not know if I need a plumber or electrician.
