China Cheap price TU-1J04 thermal wax actuator for electric switch valve Supply to Swaziland
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China Cheap price TU-1J04 thermal wax actuator for electric switch valve Supply to Swaziland Detail:
1. Operation Principle
The Thermostatic Wax that has been sealed in shell body induces expansion by a given temperature, and inner rubber seal part drives its handspike to move under expansion pressure to realize a transition from thermal energy into mechanical energy. The Thermostatic Wax brings an upward movement to its handspike, and automatic control of various function are realized by use of upward movement of handspike. The return of handspike is accomplished by negative load in a given returned temperature.
2. Characteristic
(1)Small body size, occupied limited space, and its size and structure may be designed in according to the location where needs to work.
(2)Temperature control is reliable and nicety
(3)No shaking and tranquilization in working condition.
(4)The element doesn’t need special maintenance.
(5)Working life is long.
3.Main Technical Parameters
(1)Handspike’s height may be confirmed by drawing and technical parameters
(2)Handspike movement is relatives to the temperature range of the element, and the effective distance range is from 1.5mm to 20 mm.
(3)Temperature control range of thermal wax actuator is between –20 ~ 230℃.
(4)Lag phenomenon is generally 1 ~ 2℃. Friction of each component part and lag of the component part temperature cause a lag phenomenon. Because there is a difference between up and down curve of traveling distance.
(5)Loading force of thermal wax actuator is difference, it depends on its’ shell size.
Product detail pictures:
With our leading technology at the same time as our spirit of innovation,mutual cooperation, benefits and development, we are going to build a prosperous future alongside one another with your esteemed enterprise for China Cheap price TU-1J04 thermal wax actuator for electric switch valve Supply to Swaziland, The product will supply to all over the world, such as: Nicaragua , Hongkong , Philadelphia , Our company, is always regarding quality as company' s foundation, seeking for development via high degree of credibility , abiding by iso9000 quality management standard strictly , creating top-ranking company by spirit of progress-marking honesty and optimism.
►►►Read First◄◄◄ * WATCH IN 1080p* !
notebook black screen fix
Hi guys, today i´ll Show you how to fix / repair a black Screen on boot on your Notebook ! ”
Before you try this be sure to have tried this :
1. Software
- Try Fn + F5 or something like that
2. Electrical
- Remove battery, unplug power, hold power button for 60 seconds, turn on computer with power plug only, then shutdown, add battery and restart
3. Magnetic On/Off Switch to detect of Close/Open Lid
- Your magnet switch is fubar some how. Open up the speaker cover and see if your lid actuator switch that come in contact with the magnet on your lid cover is stuck or not (find where the magnet is in the back of the front lid cover, trace where the magnet area actually touches the base of the computer and you will find the switch)
- Workaround, start windows with lid at 30 degree angle
4. Hardware
- You need to replace either Inverter, Blacklight, or everything. =)
-Display cable / connector broken (Screen should flicker if you rotate it )
- Broken gprahics chip / Card.
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When you have checked those steps, you can be sure that it is the graphics chip.
You will need to do a reflow or professional reballing.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_soldering
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Other common symptoms are:
- Black Screen
- Vertical – Horizontal lines
- Color flashes
- image distortion
- Laptop power off
- RGB lines
Main Steps:
- Disassemble laptop
- Mask GPU with aluminum foil
- Install thermocouple sensor
- Preheat at ~220C using heatgun (2-3min)
- Intense heat at 260-280 (1-2 minutes)
- Cool down
- Assemble and test display
- In case some issues remain, reflow the back of GPU
- Tweak GPU heatsink using thermal transfer compound or adhesive
- Test your display again!
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Just follow the steps shown in the Video 
I hope this works for you!
Thanks for watching and good luck guys !
*HP DV9000 blank screen fix! Video problem BGA rework
This fix also works on the HP DV2000, DV6000 and DV9000 there are a couple more HP’s with this BGA video issue (TX1000, TX20000). Also effected by this issue are a couple Compaq models. The Comaq Presario V3000 V6000 and a couple of the Pavilion models.*
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This video covers the basics of fitting a thermostatic shower valve. Includes plumbing connections, fitting to the wall and testing operation.
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Hi, and welcome to part one plumberparts.co.uk video. In part one today, I’m going to show you how to fit a Bristan artisan bar shower mixer. They’re a pretty common type. In the second video, I’m going to show you how to actually fit the shower head and riser rail nice and straight and neatly so it looks absolutely amazing. So let’s get going and have a wicked time.
So first things first, looking at the bar mixer itself, you’ve got your temperature control at this end. These are thermostatic shower mixers, so what they have is a probe on the inside that mixes the water automatically for you, according to the temperature that you want on the adjustment. The good thing about this particular make of shower is if the thermostatic control goes wrong, you can take this end off, whip out the thermostatic control and put a new one in. And Bristan are usually really good about sending new ones out. Looking at the bar mixer itself, you’ve got to take into account that you’ve got a cold and a hot coming into it. So make sure you get them the right way around. Fortunately, we’ve already our pipes come through. So they’re roughly about the same width away. This particular shower has 1500 centres. They’re all pretty much the same. Most bar shower mixers are 1500 centres, but always check. So before we start, we’ve got to turn the hot and cold off to the system, drain it all down, and make sure it’s all turned off. Next, just take five minutes to study the instructions and find out how these actually work. These are special wall brackets for this particular type of valve. And as I said, most other manufacturers do use this method as well, so it could help you out. Basically it is a wall plate that is also an integral compression fitting that will create a water-tight seal. What happens is, is your pipe sticks out of the wall, goes through this fitting here. Then your two screws screw that to the wall. You usually want to cut your pipe off so it’s about so far out, so about a centimetre sticking out. You have an olive that slips over that and goes in there. And then you have the other part of the compression fitting that you tighten up on there. You can see you’ve got some flats on there to tighten it up. Then the shower valve itself will actually connect to that part there and tighten up. So let’s have a look at how we do it.
The first thing I always try to do is make sure that the pipes you’ve got have still got a bit of move and play in them. So if they’re not exactly 1500 centres, you can wiggle them about so they are. Fortunately these are already. Now the next thing I’d do, is just measure your 1500 across and just mark that just above where the pipe comes out. Now you know exactly where your 1500s are. Next, push each one of these clamps on so they’re fully home and against the wall. Next, put a small strobe level on. Get each clamp on so it’s level, and then mark the holes. Once you’ve got your holes marked, you can drill the holes for the screws to go through that clamp, and then clamp the clamp up. We’re lucky here because the tiling here has been put onto a nice bit of hard wood. So we can just go through the tile and then screw into the hard wood itself. You might not be so lucky. You might have a cavity wall, in which case you’re going to need cavity plugs or something like that. Always look for an installation like this. Try to make sure that you know where the water pipes are so you don’t drill into them. All right, what I usually do now is just get some silicon, and fill that little hole up a bit. Just in case you have any water go down there, it can’t escape into the back cavity of the tiles and one day pull all the tiles off. So now, push up the actual clamp itself onto the pipe. And then push that up to your holes. And then screw two screws in there to clamp it in place. Excellent bond there. And do that to the other side. Now I always find the best way to do this bit is, to slide your olive on, and slide your other half of the compression on. And then tighten it up a little way. Get yourself a pencil and just mark as far down inside the pipe as you can and that’ll be where you cut the pipe off. You wouldn’t have to do this in copper but because it’s a plastic part, we have to put the inserts in. So make sure you’ve got the taper in going in, first. So that’ll push down on the olive. Screw it on, just with your hands. Then, I always recommend getting a big pair of grips.
