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“This is one of the available climate control panels for your vehicle. If your vehicle is equipped with a different climate control system, see your Owner’s Manual for additional information.

The Auto mode may be used all year round. To turn it ON, press this button for automatic cooling or dehumidified heating. The indicator light turns ON when the system is activated. It will automatically regulate and maintain fan speed, airflow and temperature in the cabin.

The AUTO function can be turned OFF by either changing the fan speed, or by pressing the DEFROSTER, MODE, or OFF buttons. To reactivate automatic control, press the AUTO button. To turn the system OFF completely, press the OFF button.

Your vehicle has separate temperature control knobs for the driver and front seat passenger. The driver’s temperature control will set the temperature for both driver and passenger, if the DUAL control is not activated. Turn the driver’s side control knob. You’ll see the temperature setting change on the monitor. Turn it to the left for cooler, or to the right for warmer air.

If you want to adjust the passenger side temperature independently from the driver’s side, press the DUAL button or turn the passenger’s side temperature control knob.

The DUAL control indicator light will then illuminate. Turn it to the left for cooler, or to the right for warmer air. To switch back to driver control, press the DUAL button again.

The MODE button provides a choice of airflow outlets. Press repeatedly to cycle through these choices:
● Air flows from the center and side vents
● Air flows from center and side vents, and foot outlets
● Air flows mainly from foot outlets,
● Air flows from the defroster and foot outlets
● Air flows from the defroster outlets

Press the A/C button to turn the air conditioning ON or OFF.

In hot or humid conditions, a visible mist may be seen coming from the vents. This does not indicate a malfunction.

To recirculate air inside your vehicle, press this Air Recirculation button; its indicator will light up. This helps A/C efficiency and helps block outside odors from entering the cabin. Press again, to turn OFF and allow fresh air from the outside to be drawn into your vehicle. Please be aware that the Air Recirculation feature will not activate while in Defrost mode because allowing outside air to enter the vehicle improves defogging performance.

This button operates the fan speed.

When you manually change fan speeds, it turns off the automatic climate control mode. To return to automatic climate control, press the AUTO button.

To defrost or defog the front and side windows, press the DEFROSTER button. The indicator light will illuminate. Airflow will be directed to the front and side windows.

In the DEFROST mode, the A/C activates automatically at temperatures above 36 degrees Fahrenheit and the air recirculate mode automatically turns off, allowing outside air to be drawn into the passenger compartment to further improve the defogging and deicing performance.

If your vehicle happens to be in Dual mode, turning ON the defroster will revert to driver control, so both sides of the windshield will defrost evenly. Turn the driver’s side temperature to a setting that will best meet weather conditions.

For windshield deicing, your temperature selector should be turned to maximum heat and turn the fan speed to high.

As soon as possible after the windshield is cleared, press the AUTO button to return to AUTO mode. The system will return to your previous settings. Pressing the defroster button for a second time will also revert to auto mode.

To defrost or defog the rear window and, if so equipped, the outside mirrors, push the REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER switch. The indicator light will illuminate. After defrosting, push to turn OFF. If not turned OFF manually, this feature will automatically deactivate in a period of time.

There is a temperature sensor located on top of the dashboard near the windshield that helps regulate the automatic climate control settings. Please keep this area clear of papers and other materials.

Please see your Owner’s Manual for important safety information, system limitations and additional operating information.
”

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This video covers how to chase pipes into a wall or floor screed. Enjoy!

Today we are looking into screeding, I also have to sink pipes into a wall. Now, this was suggested to us by a lovely man on Twitter, I think he was called “disco dimmer” or something like that. His question’s appearing in the screen below me right now. So, anyway, as you can see, we’ve got lovely chase here, it’s been chased down lovingly by Gavin. And if you look closely, we can see, the more you start, this is basically coming out with a grinder. And I’m sure all along, he wore gloves, and he wore goggles and mask. And basically, he’s ground it out, ground it out of there. And then used an SDS router or a chisel, to just gut all this all out, and then sweep all that away. We look at the floor, we can see that he’s made a lovely little screen out just here. We get down, and have a quick look, we’re gonna see that it’s quite deep screen. So we’ve got good sort of, 40 or 50 mil there. And also, if you look here as well, we’ve got a pipe in here. You see, that’s nice and deep there as well. We’ve got a hell of a lot of room. So the thing you’ve got to think about, that’s really important when it comes to sinking pipes into the wall, is obviously the depth of the wall itself, how you’re gonna fix the pipe, so when someone comes over to render this wall, or plaster it or anything like that, that the pipes aren’t gonna move. And also, really, really, importantly, there how you’re going to try to insulate your copper pipe. Now, there’s kind of two ways you can attack it. You can either insulate it to stop the heat getting out, which is obviously a brilliant way, and also kills two birds with one stone. This is very important that the concrete, or any kind of render, doesn’t touch the copper itself, ’cause it can rot through it. So, hopefully, depending on the depth of the screed, we should be allowed to fit in this nice 15 mil by 30 mil wall. And it’s still got enough depth to then be able to render over that. Sometimes you’re trying to sink pipe into a single brace stop wall, which is only as much as four inches deep sometimes. When that happens, you’re gonna want to dig out a pipe there, and then basically gaffer tape up the pipe. We find that that helps to stop anything kind of climbing onto the pipe when it’s drying out.
Basically, what we’re gonna do is, I’ve got some double clips. We’re gonna pop a few double clips in down here, get our pipes laid out in the bottom, and basically get our pipes up in the thing, ready for Gavin to come over here in a few days’ time, to render up, and then we’ll be fitting the radiator back on in a couple of weeks. So yeah, let’s do that now, and I hope you enjoy it. We’ll have just a quick look here, at the depth that we’ve got. See if we can give him enough clearance. I mean, that is lovely. So we can get a nice pipe round there, we’re gonna screen over the top of that, absolute treat. This is going up through the wall, and then out at the top, it’s gonna elbow sort of back over up in the loft space. Just gonna put the elbow there now. Pop that through on up. Ah, look at that. Huge amount of space, there, now. Well, it’s now just a matter of getting our lovely insulation on. So we’re gonna get a bit on like that, now where the clips are, we’re not gonna put any on, okay? Because the width of the insulation, when there’s two next to each other, is quite tight.
Okay? So now we’re gonna do that.
So, then, like I was saying, there are other ways. Okay, if you’ve got an issue with depth, okay, you haven’t got the room. Now, let’s say, the old days what they used to do, is they’d actually get newspaper and wrap it around it. Anything to stop the concrete actually touching the pipe while it’s wet, okay? And also touching it later on as well, ’cause it does go through pipe. I’ve always found a really good way to do that, is basically, gaffer tape. Gaffer tape is, you pop it down here like so, wrap it around. Then you know now, that nothing’s gonna actually get on your pipe. And the same goes for the floor. Now, if I were to wrap as well, a couple of wraps around, and make sure there’s a couple little ridges as well. So, it’s really sort of free to move as it wants. And once that’s there, and all that, there’s no way that’s ever gonna cling on there, or anything like that. There’s a nice little bit of room in there, as well, it sort of protects the pipe a little bit, so that’s, I said, the other way. So, a closer look at that.