Massive Selection for TU-1C09 thermal wax actuator for thermostatic automatic water drain valve for Bolivia Manufacturers
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Massive Selection for TU-1C09 thermal wax actuator for thermostatic automatic water drain valve for Bolivia Manufacturers Detail:
1. Operation Principle
The Thermostatic Wax that has been sealed in shell body induces expansion by a given temperature, and inner rubber seal part drives its handspike to move under expansion pressure to realize a transition from thermal energy into mechanical energy. The Thermostatic Wax brings an upward movement to its handspike, and automatic control of various function are realized by use of upward movement of handspike. The return of handspike is accomplished by negative load in a given returned temperature.
2. Characteristic
(1)Small body size, occupied limited space, and its size and structure may be designed in according to the location where needs to work.
(2)Temperature control is reliable and nicety
(3)No shaking and tranquilization in working condition.
(4)The element doesn’t need special maintenance.
(5)Working life is long.
3.Main Technical Parameters
(1)Handspike’s height may be confirmed by drawing and technical parameters
(2)Handspike movement is relatives to the temperature range of the element, and the effective distance range is from 1.5mm to 20 mm.
(3)Temperature control range of thermal wax actuator is between –20 ~ 230℃.
(4)Lag phenomenon is generally 1 ~ 2℃. Friction of each component part and lag of the component part temperature cause a lag phenomenon. Because there is a difference between up and down curve of traveling distance.
(5)Loading force of thermal wax actuator is difference, it depends on its’ shell size.
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Had a check engine light on my 2001 Ford Windstar, P1518 “Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open.” After reading forums, most pointed to a plastic “bushing” clip coming off leaving a control arm hanging loose, leaving the intake manifold hanging open. Found a pack of replacement bushings (Dorman #47099) at O’Reilly Auto and managed to get a new one on with a couple pliers, then reinserted the control arm. Forums say that when this is replaced, the CEL should turn off on its own within a few days (about 60-120 miles of driving). I’ll update in comments after a few days of driving.
MY FOLLOWUP TO THIS VIDEO: A few days later, the check engine light DID go away on its own. It’s difficult to say with certainty, but my van also feels a bit more responsive, especially accelerating to highway speeds. So all in all, a good $6 experiment seems to have paid off!
