High Definition For TU-1D03 thermal wax actuator for industrial thermostatic water regulations mixing valve for Lesotho Factories
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High Definition For TU-1D03 thermal wax actuator for industrial thermostatic water regulations mixing valve for Lesotho Factories Detail:
1. Operation Principle
The Thermostatic Wax that has been sealed in shell body induces expansion by a given temperature, and inner rubber seal part drives its handspike to move under expansion pressure to realize a transition from thermal energy into mechanical energy. The Thermostatic Wax brings an upward movement to its handspike, and automatic control of various function are realized by use of upward movement of handspike. The return of handspike is accomplished by negative load in a given returned temperature.
2. Characteristic
(1)Small body size, occupied limited space, and its size and structure may be designed in according to the location where needs to work.
(2)Temperature control is reliable and nicety
(3)No shaking and tranquilization in working condition.
(4)The element doesn’t need special maintenance.
(5)Working life is long.
3.Main Technical Parameters
(1)Handspike’s height may be confirmed by drawing and technical parameters
(2)Handspike movement is relatives to the temperature range of the element, and the effective distance range is from 1.5mm to 20 mm.
(3)Temperature control range of thermal wax actuator is between –20 ~ 230℃.
(4)Lag phenomenon is generally 1 ~ 2℃. Friction of each component part and lag of the component part temperature cause a lag phenomenon. Because there is a difference between up and down curve of traveling distance.
(5)Loading force of thermal wax actuator is difference, it depends on its’ shell size.
Product detail pictures:
In order to give you convenience and enlarge our business, we also have inspectors in QC Team and assure you our best service and product for High Definition For TU-1D03 thermal wax actuator for industrial thermostatic water regulations mixing valve for Lesotho Factories, The product will supply to all over the world, such as: Chicago , Nairobi , Orlando , Furthermore, all of our products are manufactured with advanced equipment and strict QC procedures in order to ensure high quality. If you are interested in any of our products, please don't hesitate to contact us. We will do our best to meet your needs.
I need your help troubleshooting a gas oven ignitor.
The ignitor won’t work if you do not have gas or power.
I know the ignitor won’t work if I do not have gas. And yes, I’ve paid the gas bill.
It won’t work if you do not have power either.
The lights are on.
If the oven blew an electric fuse, it shuts off power to the igniter and control board.
The control panel and clock are lit up.
If the control panel is flashing an error code, you may want to power cycle the oven to see if the errors go away, so that the oven will then ignite and run.
There are not any error codes.
If you managed to blow a thermal fuse with the thermostat malfunctioning or the oven temperature control actuator stuck open or another issue, the ignitor won’t work until the thermal fuse is replaced.
It has not overheated to that degree.
So you’re certain the gas valve has not shut due to a safety condition like too much gas or too high a temperature?
As certain as I can be without a repair man telling me so.
You have to turn on the thermostat valve via the oven temperature knob.
That’s like telling me to make sure the thermostat is set to heat when I’m concerned the furnace is not running.
You’d be surprised how many HVAC tech calls are because someone left the thermostat on fan mode when they complain the heat won’t come on. And if the gas oven won’t turn on, it could be because that thermostat knob is broken.
I turn up the heat, and I hear the knob click, and the thing does not come on and ignite.
Then the igniter needs to be replaced.
I’m assuming a match cannot be used in its place.
Whether your gas oven uses an igniter or glo bar, it uses an electrical park or other shock to light the gas and you should never light it with a match. You can turn it on and see if a spark lights up, though not all models let you see that ignition spark.
How can I narrow down the problem?
Turn on a stove top burner. If that can come up with flames, you know the issue is not the gas flow and more likely an igniter or controller in the oven.
So if the stove comes on and there are not any other error codes, I need to look at replacing an ignitor.
Igniters tend to be toward the bottom of the oven, so they can get flooded by boiled over gravy or food debris that fall in the bottom and burn and block the pipe. You may just be able to clean it.
That’s cheaper than replacing it.
Just do not run self-cleaning cycle, or you’ll risk needing to replace the control panel instead of the ignition.
All rights go to their prospective owners
song by: Nick Kamarera Feat. Phelipe – Reason For Love
and much thanks to driftenthusiast for making the simple write up I followed and used to complete this installation. (click link for driftenthusiast written write up for more in detail instructions incase video isn’t enough)
https://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/154426-how-s13-jdm-digital-climate-control.html
if this helped you I would appreciate Likes, comments and any questions that arise and I will do my best to answer and reply to every one. If you guys have some time I would really appreciated if you guys could help me out I’ve entered a contest by Enjuku to win a set of coilovers for my 91 S13 coupe its time to replace my stock suspension before anything bad happens XD. by clicking on this link
https://a.pgtb.me/3Dx5Jn?app_data=entry_id%3D33919112
all you do is like their page and then scroll all the way to the bottom and you will see many cars please if you can vote for my blue 91 240sx it would help me out a lot my name is under the image its Steven T with a picture of Ted next to my name XD well thanks for your time 
“I installed the JDM S13 DCC in my daily this weekend and figured id do a write up on it.
I will try do go more in depth to make this install more simple. Some words will be quoted from that post.
^^ This write up is way more printer friendly, i suggest if you have a good idea of what you need to do print that thread and refer to mine if you have any questions, there are slight differences.”-driftenthusiast
Here is the list of parts you will need.
1. JDM S13 Digital climate control unit
2. JDM S13 Digital climate control sub-harness
3. JDM S13 Blend door actuator
^^JDM only parts^^
4. Blower motor speed controller, i used the JDM S13 one, you can also use one “from a 92 Q45 but most mid 90′s maxima with automatic climate control should work to”
5. Optional** JDM Thermo control amp ( i used the stock one with no modifications, not sure if it would change anything)
6. JDM aspirator tube(connects air box to cabin temp sensor) also from “mid 90′s maxima with automatic climate control”
SENSORS
1. JDM Ambient air temp sensor (“you can get it from a 91 pathfinder and most mid 90′s maxima”
2. JDM Cabin air temp sensor (“most mid 90′s maxima”)
3. JDM Sunload sensor (“most mid 90′s maxima”)
INSTALLATION
1. Wiring
The wiring for the DCC is very simple and can be done without any trouble. The only JDM wiring you need is the harness that plugs into the DCC unit. The sensors will plug into that and if you have the sensors with connectors it will make the install easier. There are 3 power wires and one ground that have to be spliced into the harness.
1. Constant +12v power. This wire is the single red wire with a single plug on the JDM DCC harness. I spliced this into the memory wire for the radio, it is Red/black stripe on the USDM chassis side of the radio harness.
2. Ignition on +12v power. This wire is Blue/Red stripe and is on the small 6 wire connector on the JDM DCC harness( see below ). I spliced it into a blue wire on the USDM Radio connector on the dash harness that has power with the ignition on.( see above)
3. Ignition on +12v power. This wire is the Green/white stripe on the small 6 wire connector( see above). This wire can be disconnected at the 6 wire connector and re pinned into the large 16 pin connector( see below) in an empty spot. This spot has ignition on +12v that is already run the the USDM dash side so all you have to do is plug it in and it will work, no soldering.
4. Ground wire. This is the last wire you have to run. On the USDM side of the 16pin climate control connector there is a Red/orange stripe wire that needs to be grounded.( see below) I cut the wire a few inches from the connector and attached a ground eyehook and bolted it to the dash frame.
if this helped you I would appreciate Likes, comments and any questions that arise and I will do my best to answer and reply to every one. If you guys have some time I would really appreciated if you guys could help me out I’ve entered a contest by Enjuku to win a set of coilovers for my 91 S13 coupe its time to replace my stock suspension before anything bad happens XD. by clicking on this link
https://a.pgtb.me/3Dx5Jn?app_data=entry_id%3D33919112
all you do is like their page and then scroll all the way to the bottom and you will see many cars please if you can vote for my blue 91 240sx it would help me out a lot my name is under the image its Steven T with a picture of ted next to my name XD well thanks for your time
